Products for Portable Sanitation

Bosworth foot and hand-operated pumps have found application in the portable sanitation industry for flushable toilets in port-a-johns. Guzzler foot pumps are available with foot-button activation as well as foot-lever activation. Foot button pumps come with an optional protective rubber boot. When equipped with standard weight springs, these pumps easily draw water from a holding tank to pump through the toilet during the toilet flush operation. Some portable toilets also use Bosworth’s flush-mounted hand pump for toilet flush activation. This hand pump can be mounted below a surface or behind a wall, and features easy operation via a rugged, aluminum handle.

Bosworth also offers the Guzzler "Junior" foot pump for use in portable handwash stations. This pump is designed for "flooded-inlet" applications and delivers 2.8 oz of water per stroke.

Bosworth also offers a special "slot-activated" flush-mount diverter valve for use in portable toilet plumbing. This diverter valve is installed below a floor or behind a wall and is operated by inserting a screwdriver into a recessed slot for a low-profile, space-saving installation.

See Portable Sanitation Products Catalog to download a catalog of these products.

GF-0400D-0

Guzzler "400" foot pump with opposite side ports and standard weight spring. Available with rubber boot for dust cover.

GF-0450D-0

Guzzler "450" foot pump with opposite side ports and standard weight spring. Available with rubber boot for dust cover.

GF-1400D-0

Compact pump design features inlet/outlet ports on bottom of pump. Pump available with straight as well as 90 degree elbow inlet/outlet flanges.

GF-0250S-0

Guzzler "Junior" foot pump is ideal for portable handwash stations. Available with a range of inlet/outlet sizes and styles, accommodating 1/4" to 1/2" hose sizes.

GL-0400D-7

Foot lever pump with rugged aluminum activating lever. Accommodates 1/2" to 1-1/4" hose.

GH-M400D-4

Flush-mounted "400" style hand pump features sleek cover-plate and removable handle.

GH-0400D-4

Vertical-handle Hand pump features back-and-forth pumping action. Can be installed behind wall or surface using "Thru-Deck" mounting kit accessory. Accommodates 3/4" to 1-1/4" hose.

YV-194D-F

Flush-mounted Diverter valve with recessed activation slot. Divert gray water from holding tank to recirculate using screwdriver inserted in slot.

HO-44

Vinyl, non-collapsing hose

HC-54

Hose End Cuff

HS-84

Hose Strainer for '400 series pumps

TDMK-34

Thru-Deck Mounting Kit for '400 and '500 series vertical handle pumps

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Frequently Asked Questions

Is it better to mount the pump horizontally or vertically?: The horizontal-handle pumps and the vertical-handle pumps are completely equivalent in functionality. Which you choose for your installation is entirely a matter of which style of pumping action (“back-and-forth” for the vertical handle and “up-and-down” for the horizontal handle) is convenient for your use. Additionally, if you equip your pump with duckbill valves, you can mount your pump vertically, which changes the sense of handle action as well.
Where does a check valve go in the inlet line?: Check valves are also called “foot valves”, because they typically are placed at the foot of in the inlet line. There they serve as a “one-way” valve to permit water to be drawn up to the pump, but to help prevent it from flowing backward either when the pump is performing its exhaust stroke or when it is not operating. In this way, the check valve helps to maintain the height of the water column in the inlet line, thus maintaining the pump’s “prime”. We recommend that you use a check anytime the pump lift (i.e., the vertical distance from the fluid source to the inlet of the pump) exceeds 12 feet.
How do I use a check valve to increase pump lift?: A check valve makes it easier for you to use the Guzzler pump to prime for pump lifts in excess of 12 feet. If you had a see-through inlet line, as you begin to pump you would see that the Guzzler draws fluid up the inlet line toward the pump as you execute the suction stroke of the pump. However, as you perform the exhaust stroke, the fluid would tend to fall backward a bit, and then be drawn up further with the next suction stroke. As you are priming at greater distances, this fallback effect on the water column becomes more pronounced. To offset it, install a check valve at the bottom of the inlet line. Also called “foot valves” because they are typically placed at the foot of in the inlet line, check valves serve as a “one-way”valve to permit water to be drawn up to the pump, but to help prevent it from flowing backward either when the pump is performing its exhaust stroke or when it is not operating. In this way, the check valve helps to maintain the height of the water column in the inlet line, thus maintaining the pump’s “prime”. We recommend that you use a check anytime the pump lift (i.e., the vertical distance from the fluid source to the inlet of the pump) exceeds 12 feet.
What should I check if the pump stops working?: If your pump stops working, the first thing to check is whether there is a hole or tear in the diaphragm. If so, the diaphragm needs replacement. If there is no problem with the diaphragm, then check to see if the pump is able to create a vacuum to draw fluid up to it. Disconnect the inlet line and, with your hand directly covering the inlet flange, pull the handle up (or turn the motor on). You should feel a suction on your hand. If not, then remove the outlet flange (opposite the inlet), to inspect that the valve is operating properly and not obstructed by any material. Depending on the type of valve, material in the fluid that enters the pump may become lodged in the valve and prevent it from closing to make a tight seal against the flange. If this happens, then the pump will be unable to create a suction on the inlet side. After checking the inlet suction, disconnect the outlet hose and, with your hand covering the outlet flange, press down on the handle (or turn the motor on). You should feel exhaust pressure against your hand. If not, then make a similar inspection of the inlet valve.

If there is no material lodged in either valve, the valves may simply be old and no longer seating properly. If your pump is a “400” series pump equipped with flapper valves, a simple trick is to turn each valve around. Sometimes flapper valves can warp as they age and simply flipping the valve to change the side that seals against the flange allows the valve to operate properly again. (Note that you cannot do this trick with “500” flapper valves since they have a specific side that needs to face against the sealing flange.) If the pump is operating properly when disconnected from your hoses (i.e., if you feel the appropriate suction and exhaust pressure), then a next step is to check your inlet and outlet lines for any obstruction.
What is the highest temperature that the pump will sustain?: This depends very much on the component materials that you’ve selected when you configured your pump. The white Delrin plastic of our "N" pumps is rated for a maximum temperature of 220° Fahrenheit, while the gray Acetal plastic of our "D" pumps has a maximum service temperature of 212° Fahrenheit. Aluminum and bronze pump bodies can sustain much higher temperatures. Don’t forget to choose an elastomer for the diaphragm and valves whose temperature rating meets your requirements. Helpful information is provided in the tooltips for diaphragm and valve choices on the pump configuration web page of this site.
What is the lowest temperature at which the pump will continue to work?: The lowest temperature is generally the freezing point of the liquid you are pumping. Remember that adding salt to water depresses its freezing point, allowing you to pump at temperatures below 32°F.